Thursday, September 7, 2023

Napa Day #5 - More wine!

 I'm technically writing this the next morning, but let's pretend I stuck to my schedule and I wrote this when I got home last night..... 

Today was the last two vineyards, and another local thrift store. I've gotten mixed answers when I ask exactly how many vineyards there are in Napa (apparently there's debate between tasting rooms that make their grapes elsewhere, and proper vineyards here). Best answer is somewhere between 350 - 500 opportunities to try different types of wine. My long-winded way of saying that if you like wine, there's plenty to keep you occupied! 

First one was Frank Family Vineyard. This one was recommended by several people, including my neighbors and my boss at work. It's owned by a former Disney CEO and his wife, a 20-year San Francisco TV anchor. I got there a few minutes late, only to discover the reservation I thought I had, didn't exist. They couldn't find it in their system, I couldn't find it in my bank records, either. However, they were kind enough to work me in, and even gave me a free tasting! That's about a $50 savings right there. Very good wine, and I bought a bottle of their brut rose since they didn't charge (I would have ordered it when I got home, anyway). 

Next up, Trefethen Vineyards. Funny story with this one.....many months ago I purchased one of their tea towels at Goodwill. Thought it was cool that it was from Napa. When I started planning my trip, it was a no-brainer to include this winery. Had to find out about the place the towel came from! :) Good wine, and an absolutely beautiful vineyard. You'll see some pictures below. It was the CA version of Tara (or Queens Rd West) driving up to the tasting room. 

One deep thought about this trip. The concept of "normal" is fascinating to me. It's one of the reasons I love travel - everywhere I go has a different concept of normal. Here you wake up with beautiful mountains as your backdrop and wineries at your backdoor. It's a fascinating mix of the tourists and the locals. You can walk almost everywhere if you're in the city of Napa, and can find houses, apartments and stores all in the same block (Are you listening to that one, CLT? I mean, really.)  It's my long-winded way of saying travel actually keeps me grounded. You learn very quickly your way is not the only way. Plenty other methods of existence...... 

......and now, pictures! 


From Frank Family Vineyard - being a Disney CEO can get you some fun stuff. 


More Disney memorabilia


These bottles were the length of my arm. Can you imagine the party you'd have to have to serve these? 


Me! 


Sign at Trefethen. One of the main differences I see here. The tasting rooms are beautiful, but there don't really seem to be places to bring a meal and enjoy a glass of their wine. To be fair though, they get a lot more people - could easily get overrun with crowds. 



The hostess showed me a map of their property and what was planted where. First - the straight lines! Next, it amazes me how carefully everything is planned out. 


One of the shots of the drive to the tasting room



The tasting menu. Each place was really great though - if you didn't want to try a specific one, they were quick to offer other suggestions. I got an additional white and red to try. 


When I talk about the view.....


One of the cool things about many of the vineyards was the addition of vegetable gardens. Many places were starting to combine fancier food and meal pairings with their wine tasting offerings. Trefethen was just starting to do this, but in the meantime all employees could take whatever they wanted from the garden. A cool benefit! 



Another pic of the drive to the tasting room - Trefethen


The tasting room at Trefethen was a older residence. The hostess said the family doesn't live here anymore, but will often come up after hours to use the pool....  :) 


I had never seen this. If you enlarge the pic, you'll see a spiral staircase at the bottom, and a birdcage on the top. A birdcage, for people? 






Tuesday, September 5, 2023

Napa Day #4: You knew I was going thrifting, right?

 You put me in one of the more expensive areas of the country and you don't expect me to go thrifting? Yeah, right.  :)  Today was Bread & Butter winery, thrift shopping, and dinner at RH Napa. 

Can I tell you how much I LOVED Bread & Butter? So much that I joined their wine club. They have a nationally distributed (1.5M cases annually) white label, and a smaller (3,000 cases annually) black label. I liked every single wine I tried from the black label, so subscribing was my treat to myself. 

On a related note: Something I didn't expect was the difference in how the varieties taste. Napa Valley is a 30-40 mile region divided into multiple smaller regions. Some of the larger wineries also get their grapes from outside Napa - south of LA, for example. I wouldn't expect the wines to taste so different, but they really do! Just a few miles different, where the plants are positioned on the hillside (amount of sun, rain runoff, etc), really affects how the grapes grow and how they taste. It's pretty darn fascinating. 

You know the phrase "I may have girl bossed a little too close to the sun"? Yeah, well I may have done that with the cork project. I've already filled my book bag and still have two bags to find room for, as well as what I'll get from the two wineries tomorrow. The UPS store in downtown Napa has to have seen this before, right?  

Thrifting in Napa: Some beautiful items, but the prices were not what I wanted to pay. Thank you, I can get a new COACH bag at the outlet for $150, I don't want to pay that for a used one. Even if it was Barbie pink and very cool.  I did find a great new keychain (pictured below, you'll laugh) and some vintage sink pieces I'm going to use to hang towels and robes on. Also, in the "Kelly can talk to a post" line of thought.....started a conversation with a group that had someone who worked in CLT, and turned out we knew some of the same people. I mean really - I'm on the opposite coast and I find people who know people I know. Very cool. 

Lastly, Mary and I got to go to RH Napa. We have one in CLT, but this one is grander with lights, crystal chandeliers and trees. Indoors! Fancy, fancy..... 

......and now, the pictures! 

Sunset in Napa. I mean, seriously......


Bread & Butter winery. Very unpretentious and friendly. 


Growing through a stone wall. Nature finds a way..... 


Yup, it's now on my keychain. 


These bags aren't full of wine, they're full of corks. And that's not all. See why I'm thinking of shipping? 

Dinner at RH Napa. Fancy, fancy.... 


There's a wine bar attached to the restaurant, this was the main chandelier. Yes, the "behold, she is singing to bring down the chandelier!" line from Phantom of the Opera went through my head while I was taking this photo. 


More of RH Napa


The famous French Laundry. There's not even a sign out front, this is tucked away in a small courtyard that you had to search to find. 


The only train that runs here is the Napa Valley Wine train, but darn it, I've always wanted my picture taken on train tracks. :) 


Las Vegas has their sign, Napa Valley has one too.  




Monday, September 4, 2023

Napa Day #3: Blue skies, mountain views and college friends

     Napa, Day 3! I got to spend today with Mary, a friend from college. She and her family live in Napa and when she found out I was visiting, she was nice enough to offer to be my tour guide for the day. I got a great view of both the tourist side and the resident side of Napa. It was wonderful to see a college friend, and wonderful to hang out with someone who knows the area so well. What a great experience! 

The first place we went today was Domaine Carneros (I'm calling it DC. Probably gauche, but oh well). This winery is built in the style of a French chateau, and is MASSIVE. You walk up about 4 flights of stairs to get to the entrance, and they take every opportunity with the height to show off the building. Plus, the height gets you some amazing views. DC is known for its sparkling wines, but also offers several still varieties. We got to sample both, and they were really good. Of course my favorite was the $95 bottle of pinot noir, but needless to say it did not end up in my bag. 

I did get a good laugh....in the pictures you'll meet Regan, an adorable poodle / Bichon mix. Regan was sporting a purple mohawk and tail, and I'm pretty sure she was also wearing a Gucci collar. Her owner was more than happy to let me take pictures, and even tempted the dog with a piece of cheese to get better shots. It was definitely something. 

The next winery was Migration, part of the Duckhorn Vineyards family. These were also really good wines. It's been fascinating to sample the different types of wine available and how they differ from region to region. I've never been a red wine girl, but I'm really loving these! Very smooth and drinkable, instead of that funky aftertaste that so many have. 

A side note: I've found one of the cheapest souvenirs around. Wine corks! Each place I've been to over the past few days has happily given me a bag of corks to take home with me. One even filled up a small trash bag. I figure it'll be a great souvenir to make a wreath, coasters, or anything else I can think of. I also might freak out a few TSA agents with the four bags (and counting!) of corks I'm going to have to fit in my book bag......  :) 

Last stop of the day.....Mary and Jamie invited me to go with them to Brix, a local restaurant. So good! It's fancy without being pretentious, and had a beautiful garden in the back where they grow vegetables they use in the restaurant. The tempura fried green beans, gnocchi and wine were so, so yummy.  (the company was also wonderful!) 

And now, more pictures! 



The views on the way up


Not a day over 19, really!  :) 


Random pocket in Napa. I love that the city is full of greenery and little spots like this. 


Domaine Carneros. Fancy and gorgeous! Also really friendly staff. 


Just one of the views at DC. When I tell you I could sit there for the afternoon.......


Meet Regan! 


The still wines from DC 


The sparkling tasting at DC (yes, that's a real pour!)


Several places have special spots for dogs. This was a local hotel, welcoming their newest VIP guest..... 


The tasting rooms are fancy, with blankets, heathers and creature comforts. If you don't know what Mary and I are doing, google Selena Gomez and blanket. Had to riff on it.  :) 



Part of the gardens at Brix 


I don't think I've ever seen a Rolls Royce in person. We had a theory about who the owner was, but no way to test it out. 








Sunday, September 3, 2023

Napa Day #2 - Wine, tourists and wine (and wine!)

 .....and, now that I've gotten some food and sleep...... 


Today was Cakebread Winery, Oakville Grocery and Chandon. My thoughts, in totally random order.... 

Tourists: I figured out how to identify who's a tourist, and who is a local! If you're wearing a flowered sundress and straw hat (and likely carrying a high end purse) or slim fit khaki pants, you're a tourist. Not joking, it is the strangest thing of "I am an individual, but I'm going to dress like everyone else to blend in". Except they're not blending at all. Locals are in t-shirts and shorts. 

Cakebread Winery: For perspective.....some of the "accompaniments" I've been given at NC wineries include a single Hershey kiss, and the pours are barely a swallow. Here, you're served a sample as soon as you walk in, a tasting with four courses (small ones, but they included steak!) and a glass to enjoy while you walk around on a tour of the winery. They do NOT mess around. I wasn't a fan of their chardonnay, but really liked their Cabernet sauvignon. I also discovered the cheapest souvenir around - wine corks! They happily shared some with me, and I'm planning to ask at the rest of the wineries as well. 

Oakville Grocery: A combination general store and cafe / sandwich shop, this place was absolutely packed. Worth it though, for a good lunch that wasn't ridiculously priced. What made me laugh....I was talking to the couple ahead of me (please see post in previous comment about me talking to a post) when they asked me where I was from. When I replied "Charlotte, NC" I heard a voice behind me say "Us too!". Two couples were right behind us, and they were from the South End area of Charlotte. 

Chandon: The US version of Moet and Chandon. Lots of bubbly varieties and a very helpful staff. I mentioned a varietal that was on the website but wasn't on the tasting, they got it and started pouring. And pouring another similar to it. And pouring some more.....They also gave me a whole bag full of corks. I bought a bottle of champagne infused with an orange Argentinian liquor. Really good. 

And finally, dinner with Mary! Mary and I both went to UNCG and stayed in the same dorm. When I said I was visiting Napa, she kindly offered to take me around. I've been loving hearing the local perspective on the city. It's a lot of insight I wouldn't get otherwise. 

And now, more pictures! 

Cakebread Winery.....beautiful use of wood in design. The architecture is so different here - it's fascinating. 

The driveway and scenery at Cakebread



My welcome sample of wine



The tasting menu. The chef gave us all his business card and encouraged us to email for recipes. They also have a large garden on site. The husband and wife founders had an agreement - he got a winery, she got a garden. 

Four wines, four food samples 

I had never seen this. Some wine is stored in concrete eggs. I asked, it's still referred to as "unoaked" :) 

Mountains! 





From college to now! 


Day #8 St Paul de Vence and Farewell Dinner

 It's the last day! Today we went to St Paul de Vence and had our Farewell Dinner. The highlights....  St Paul de Vence is a walled city...