Tips for Visiting Paris (and travel in general)

 Last post for a while! It's been a lot of fun, hope you've enjoyed it as much as I have. Below, my suggestions for traveling, specifically for traveling in Paris. I tried to write down tips that you haven't seen in every other travel blog.....hope I succeed for you. Bon journee!

General Travel: 

• Wear good walking shoes. I got at least 10,000 steps per day in Paris, and could definitely tell the difference when I wore my good shoes vs. my so-so shoes. If you want to wear fancy heels for a few pics, that's fine. But be nice to yourself and bring a sturdier pair to change into after. Walking around with blisters and swollen feet quickly makes a good experience a miserable one. 
• Packing cubes are your friend. I tried packing cubes for the first time two trips ago, and I'll never go back. It keeps everything neat, you can fit more in your suitcase, and it's easier to find what you want. Pack by outfit, by type of clothing, or however best works for you. Bonus - store your dirty clothes in one of the cubes, and it keeps them away from clothes you may not use. There are some good sets on Amazon for about $15-$20. 
• Consider getting a credit card that gives travel points. If you can be disciplined and pay it off quickly, it can help you get rewards. I put things like my flight, upcoming cruise, and meals on my cards and now have about $1,000 in rewards. That's a few plane tickets or a plane ticket / nice hotel stay. 
• If you're flying - one carry on bag and one personal item does NOT mean a completely full backpack and day suitcase! Airline storage just isn't made for it. Can't tell you how many people thought they could carry on a large book bag and a weekender bag, and were completely surprised when the storage filled up and they had to check their bag. Be considerate, really. 
• Learn a few local customs / words before you go. You're in another place, people don't necessarily think your way or play by your rules. It helps make your transition easier (ask me sometime about the seats on Paris public toilets), and you'll get a much better response from those around you. 

Paris travel: 

• Book everything as soon as possible, a few months before if you can. Things fill up fast, especially during the high tourist season. I met many people who didn't get to do everything they wanted because they didn't make reservations at all, or in time. This is likely a once-in-a-lifetime trip....give it the advance planning it deserves. 
• Think about where you want to stay. You'll save money if you stay in the outer arr. / districts, but you'll also use more time getting to and from places where you want to be. 
• Expect crowds. It's not about just you, it's about everyone around you. Keep alert for safety, and also follow the Golden Rule. In most instances if you're kind to others, they'll return the favor. 
• The Metro is your friend! Use the Paris Visite pass to get unlimited access for 1, 3 or 5 days. Download the RATP app so you can have step-by-step directions of what route to take. Do some research before you go and it'll save you so much time when you're there. 
• This one may be controversial.....if your hotel has a breakfast option included in the price, get it. When you're trying to get up and get moving for the day, it just makes life easier to know one thing is taken care of. Plus you can leave all your travel stuff in your room, and quickly go back up and get it when you're ready to leave. (Paris cafe tables are very close together, settling in with a book bag, stroller, etc can be difficult) 

Lastly, consider what YOU want to do, and not what the travel sites tell you to do. I enjoy people far more than things, so I've leaned my travels in that direction. For example, I've avoided the Louvre both times I've been in Paris. I'd be surrounded by tourists, jostling for a place so I can look at a painting that's smaller than I expected, and behind glass. I'd much rather talk with a shopkeeper, take a tour from a local volunteer (email me about that one, so worth it!), or anything else that gets me closer to the culture of a place. What is it about a new place that would make you happy? Do the research, find what interests you, then do that. That's what makes the trip worthwhile. 

Happy traveling!  :) 

Travel Links - Where I Went

Morning, y'all! My body currently has no idea what time it is, but I've had coffee so let's go. :) As promised, here's the list of links to some of the things I did. I'll post some travel suggestions next - both general and specific to Paris. Note: Some of the links may come up in French. There's usually a button somewhere on the page you can translate to English, or if you use Safari there's a translate button in the address bar. Thank you for coming along on the journey, it's been a blast! 

Event links: 

Tuesday: 

• Musee Arts and Design
•  https://madparis.fr/en
• Paris Visite pass (for transportation) 
• https://parisjetaime.com/eng/tickets/paris-visite-pass-unlimited-travel-m9001083

Wednesday: 

• Arc de Triumph
• https://www.paris-arc-de-triomphe.fr/en
• AXS Design
• https://www.axsdesign.fr
• Seine river cruise 
• https://www.viator.com/tours/Paris/Champagne-Tasting-on-a-Seine-River-Cruise/d479-3777CC

Thursday: 

• Giverny tour
• https://www.viator.com/tours/Paris/Independent-Giverny-and-Monets-House-Tour-with-Transport-from-Paris/d479-2050P181
• Angelinas
• https://www.angelina-paris.fr

Friday: 

• Treize Jardin: 
• http://treizeaujardin.com
• Opera Garnier 
• https://www.operadeparis.fr

Saturday: 

• Women of Paris 
• http://www.womenofparis.fr
• Village of St Paul 
• https://levillagesaintpaul.com

Sunday: 

• Flea markets (Clingancourt, Marche St Ouen - it has many names) 
• https://www.pucesdeparissaintouen.com/en/

Paris Day 7 - Flea Markets (Clingancourt or St Ouen)

It's my last full day in Paris! I can't tell you how much I want to win the lottery and buy an apartment here. Of course, then I'd have to buy an apartment at the beach, and London, and..... 

Today was one I'd really been excited about - the flea markets! Paris is home to the 2nd largest flea market in the world. So large that's it's divided into 11 neighborhoods / markets. Each neighborhood has its own theme and attitude.  For example, Serpette sells the expensive furniture and goods (there's a shipping company on site), Dauphine is middle of the road, and Vernaison is probably what we're most used to in terms of a flea market. There's one main street, with each neighborhood off that street. Once you get into each neighborhood there's aisles and aisles of shops. Each neighborhood is probably the size of 2-3 Targets put together, if that gives you any indication of size. I had the most fun getting lost in each neighborhood, wandering through the aisles and picking up stuff. 

Some of the more interesting things for sale: 

• old airplane seats (saw these in several stores) 
• house doors with intricate carvings - probably from rehabbed houses
• glass bottle stoppers for decanters 
• piles and piles of vintage fabric and trim (check out one of the pics below for an example) 
• as much flatware, glassware and silver (forget the silver-plate, everything here was heavy and real) as you could stand 

So....I had a lot of fun here. My credit card will yell at me, but I was able to verify it was real and I've done lots of reading on it - they increase in value. You'll know what I mean when you see the pic below. :) Also found a vintage Hermes scarf and a Longchamp bag. 

Tonight I'm working to finish packing - my ride picks me up at 9:30 tomorrow morning. My post tomorrow will be a list of the places I've gone (with links so you can do your own research) as well as some travel tips thrown in there. Hope you've enjoyed reading as much as I've enjoyed writing! 

An alley in Vernaison, the most traditional neighborhood. I could've easily spent all day just puttering through all the booths here. 

Dauphine - some of the neighborhood had open booths, some had glass walls and doors. I'm guessing the rent was a little higher for these. 

Artwork in Dauphine

An example of one of the fabric booths. Fabric at least twice my height, with trim hanging from the top. I joked with the shop owner - "We don't have this in America!" She laughed and replied "But that's why you come to Paris!" 

Shop dog! There were so many, and so much cuteness! 

Yeah, I did a thing. Verified from 1987-1989, in mint condition. I have officially earned my bougie title, but I love it. :) 

Paris Day 6: Fashion, Shopping and Profiteroles

 Happy Saturday, y'all! This is the next-to-last day in Paris, still trying to fit in as much as I can. Today was the Women of Paris Haute Couture tour and exploring at Village of St Paul. 

Haute Couture tour: You know when they say "we're not in Kansas anymore"? This tour took place about 10-15 minutes from my hotel, but a complete world away culture-wise. Suddenly people stopped dressing like tourists and wore fancier clothes, the store names got more recognizable and there were security guards in front of each door. This was the land of Chanel, Lanvin, Schiaparelli, and others. If you have to ask how much it is, you have no business being in the store. You could see women being served glasses of champagne (at 10am!) as workers brought them the latest fashions to look over. The tour was very informative, but didn't give a lot as far as places to see. For example, we talked all about Coco Chanel.....while standing in front of her storefront. Which we had to move from because the salespeople were giving us death stares. Fun to hear the history, though. And to people watch. 

St Paul: The Village of St Paul is a small collection of shops tucked away (I'm not exaggerating the "tucked away" part....someone had to point it out to me!) in a courtyard near Notre Dame. Lots of antiques and vintage, with some handcrafted merchants thrown in. I got a handmade hat from a lovely lady who I found out afterwards has been featured in fashion shows from Christian LaCroix, Theirry Mugler, and others - she's awesome. I also picked up a beautiful pair of earrings and ring made by a woman from Morocco. 

A lot of the buildings in Paris are decorated with flower arches. This is Louis Vuitton's take on the theme. 

Stared at this dog statue for a good minute, waiting for it to move.... 

Look up this designer and lobster tail dress....pretty daring for the 1920's. The more recent version is the fashion show that featured full-size animal heads on the gowns. 

The original home of Chanel. 

Rack of clothes, not sure what they're waiting for. 

Home of Lanvin - the logo above the door is she and her daughter. 

Lanvin gown

Entryway to St Paul's. Way out of the way.... 

Street at the entrance to St Paul's (the entrance is the red sign to the left). No cars, no people. 

Sewing machine - love the base! 

My new hat! 

New earrings and ring 

I've read something about these video game pieces of artwork, but I can't find it. Supposedly they're all around the city. Anyone else know? 

 

Paris Day 5 - Treize Jardin, Angelina's, and the Phantom of the Opera (Garnier)

 Bonjour! Can I tell you how much fun I'm having? :) Before I get into today's "stuff", something I've been thinking about. So many things I've read talk about how rude the French are, how abrupt and mean they are to tourists. Both times I've been here, it's been the total opposite. The best way I can describe it - if you go into a situation as the "brash, badass American", you're going to get the "brash, badass French person" back. If you go in with manners (Bonjour and Pardon go far!) you get such a better response! I've had delightful experiences and conversations with everyone I've met so far. People want to talk (and help), it's just a matter of opening the door. 

Which brings me to my second point - the Metro. I also heard terrifying things about the Metro (It's old! It's stinky! There are pickpockets everywhere!), so honestly I was a little wary of using it by myself. I've used it extensively this trip, and happy to put those stereotypes to rest. If you've been on the Metro in NYC, Washington DC or someplace similar, it's much the same experience here. Download the RATP app (it's a lifesaver!) to get detailed directions about where you're going and how to get there, keep your wits about you the same as you would in any situation, and you're fine. I wish Charlotte had a system anywhere close to this..... 

So, on to today's events! Was planning to do Treize Jardin for dinner last night, but researched and found they closed at 5:30. Well, nope. I wound up at Angelina's, which is a few blocks from my hotel. Angelina's is famous for their hot chocolate. It's a total tourist place - I don't think any self-respecting French person would go there. That being said, still go. Dinner was good, and the hot chocolate? OMG. Straight up melted chocolate. The waitress got a good chuckle when she put it in front of me and my eyes promptly bugged out of my head. It's a fun experience to say you've tried it. 

Treize Jardin: I swear, this place is the equivalent of Cheers. Run by a woman from SC and a French woman, it's a combo of the two places and food. Also one of the friendliest places I've been. For example, I asked for a wine recommendation, saying the last time I was there they did a good job. The bartender walked out, looked at me and said 'Well, we don't have the same Mercury as the last time you were here - stopped serving at at Thanksgiving, but I do have one that's similar". Unless he recommends the exact same wine to every single person, he remembered me! I also got a second glass of wine on the house.  :) There were also a number of regulars around the bar - one helped explain to me what the RER was (train), and how to get there. Friendly, wonderful place. 

One last story (pic below) - I stopped in my tracks and laughed when I saw the Mona Lisa t-shirt. Yes, it's now in my suitcase. A little bit of CLT in Paris!  

Later tonight is the Phantom of the Opera tour at the Opera Garnier. I'm excited, because this was the tour I couldn't schedule last time. It's all the stories about the history of the opera, and it starts after closing time. Hoping that means I get some better pics, without all the tourists.  ;). Pics posted below!

 

The famous staircase.....  

PS - Being able to take a pic of it NOT crowded with tourists? Amazingly special. 

Hall of mirrors - designed after Versailles 

The ceiling of the opera house - and the chandelier! 

Hanging out in the Phantom's booth. In the musical, you hear him sing about booth #5. This is it. 

Booth of the Phantom of the Opera

More of the staircase.... 

The tour guide said "I'm not supposed to take pictures, but I'll do it anyway." Like I said earlier, everyone is so kind! 

Angelina's has both a restaurant and a store. These are just a few of the sweets available! 

Not a lot of dinner choices, but they were good. This was the chicken supremes - not like what's in America! 

Pure. Melted. Chocolate. 

Treize Jardin. When it's a beautiful sunny day, you get wine, have lunch, and sit outside and watch the world go by. 

Random, but fascinating. This was how they transported the beer kegs. At least four went out, and at least four went back in. Can you imagine pedaling when it's full. 

A little bit of CLT - and the Carolina Panthers - in Paris......

Paris Day 4 - Giverny and Treize Jardin

 Morning,  y'all! Still adjusting to the time change here.....I've been to Giverny (Monet's home) and back, and America is just getting to work. It's odd. So, the plan for today is Giverny in the morning and Treize Jardin (co-owned by a French woman and a woman from SC) for dinner this evening. I'm currently in the hotel room resting my feet. My body realized I did a lot more yesterday than I usually do! Twenty-nine floors...... 

Giverny was absolutely, wonderfully beautiful. Rather than tell you about it, I'm going to post about 20mil pictures. Well, not really, but I did take a LOT of pics. Absolutely stunning. If you're just interested in the gardens and the house, plan for about a 1/2 day trip. There are plenty of bus tours available. There's also a lovely village right next door, but I don't know if it's enough for a full day trip. 

My sneaky goal (and explanation) for dinner tonight....since the restaurant is a combination of American Southern and French food, they play off of that in their marketing. One of their employee t-shirts says "Rive Gauche, y'all." I. want. this. t-shirt. I just have to figure out how to convince them to sell me one....  :)  Update to come. 

NOTE: I'm also updating yesterday's blog, since I didn't have time to post much. More stories and pictures! 

Monet's home. The inside tour was probably the least impressive part (sorry, Monet). But the gardens....the gardens..... 

I mean, who wouldn't want to open their windows to THIS every morning? 

These are just a few of the pictures I took. Absolutely beautiful!